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Makeup for cancer patients: Teaching your clients how to stay beautiful inside and out!

So, your client has cancer, and she’s experiencing skin and facial changes during treatment and she’s turned to you the professional makeup artist for help? This one's for you.
As a makeup artist it is important to be sympathetic, and knowledgeable of what a cancer patient is going through. There are some things a patient has no control over, but as an informed artist you can teach them to take charge of their beauty regimen. Given that cancer is no joke, some might think to ask what would compel a patient to focus on beauty at a time like this. Here’s my thought on that…

The way we look affects the way we feel about ourselves.  So, how a patient feels about herself can dramatically affect how she feels physically. There is a significant relationship between self-esteem and physical well-being important to recovering cancer patients. If treatment has changed their looks, as a professional, you need take a positive approach to help them change their outlook. Teaching them to take charge of how they look, can harvest extraordinary benefits such as: renewed self-esteem, relief from depression and a sense of empowerment and control.

Chemotherapy and radiation treatments can wreak havoc on a patient’s skin. Like the rest of their body, their skin needs to be treated kindly during this time. So, I've compiled a list of great tips to teach you the artist, how to help your clients through this thorny process. Although, I have tried these tips on actual patients, make sure to have your clients consult with their physician before putting this or any other beauty plan in action.
One common malady of chemotherapy and radiation treatments is sensitive skin. If your client’s skin becomes, dry, itchy or it decides to flare-up, using products labeled "gentle or sensitive" is key. Here are some guidelines to have your clients adhere by:

SKIN:

* Make sure they get their physician's approval for all topical applications including, creams, makeup, sunscreens, etc.

* Make sure to have them adjust their skin care regime, if their skin type has changed.

* Ask them to avoid hot water; opt for warm instead. Hot water can dry skin out and make their current skin condition worse. Warm water is gentler and more soothing for sensitive skin.

* Advise them to never scrub affected areas! This can cause breakage in the skin and cause infection.

* Recommend that they resist the temptation to scratch the itch! Cornstarch can help control itching. Just have them mix water and cornstarch to make a paste and apply to the itchy areas.

* If they get any eruptions, have them wait until their skin heals completely before they shave or apply anything on it. Also, have them consult with their physician before applying any products on broken skin.
*Cancer treatment can increase vulnerability to infection, so remind them to keep hygiene a high priority. Recommend to always wash their hands before using products and close lids tightly. Also, to keep fingers out of containers, use clean cotton balls, swabs or disposable sponge-tip applicators for dispensing.  And finally, to never share products and always replace them according to manufacturer’s recommendations.

MAKEUP:
As makeup artists we know that applying "heavier" makeup will never make your skin look better. In fact, we know that the result will be very unnatural. Instead, have your clients opt for a natural, fresh and healthy look by using a light hand application.

*Concealer- Use concealer to hide any spots or discolorations on the skin. Cream or stick formulas work best, as they tend to be thicker. Pro Tip: “stipple” it on and blend well using your fingers or a disposable sponge. Choosing the right color is as important as the consistency of the product. Generally, the color should match your client’s skin tone. However, a slightly lighter color is often suggested to cover dark patches, such as under-eye circles. There are also color-correcting concealers in green (to offset redness) or yellow (to downplay bluish discolorations). So, don’t be afraid to try different techniques and products until you find what works best for your client.

*Foundation and Powder- We know that this is the base of a great makeup application. Select from light liquid and creamy stick varieties, which blend more easily over delicate skin, than quick-setting or matte versions. Hydrating or moisturizing formulas offer extra help for dry skin. When choosing a hydrating formula look for those that contain Sodium Hyaluronate, Urea, Allantoin, Serine, Glycerin, Tocopherol and Tocopheryl Acetate, as these ingredients are highly emollient. Foundation should match the client’s natural skin tone.

Pro Tip: To avoid the dreaded “mask look”, apply small stripes of two or three different colors next to each other on the client’s cheek. The color that blends seamlessly into their skin is the correct shade. Once you have found their perfect shade, the next step is proper application. You want to add foundation only to those areas they really need it, like the forehead, sides of their nose and chin. The key here is to even-out the skin tone. After you do this step, you can go back and add extra concealer to discolored areas, if needed.
Finally, a light application of translucent or lightly hued loose powder with a cotton ball or a powder brush will set the foundation and help control shine. Pressed powder compacts work well for touchups. However, if skin is very dry or flaky, you may want to skip powder altogether.

*Blush- Now that you’ve evened out the skin tone, it is time to bring back their essence by adding some color. I find that powder blush works great, however, if the client’s skin is really dry, you can try a cream blush over your foundation (if you opt for cream blush, remember to skip the translucent powder). Subtle pink, peach and bronze hues, work great on most skin tones. For a natural hint of color, apply a light dusting of blush with a blush brush onto the apples of their cheeks. Since blush brushes aren’t disposable, be sure to explain to your client the importance of washing their own brushes regularly in baby shampoo (not antibacterial soap or alcohol, which can cause damage to the brush) and air-dry overnight to prevent bacteria build-up. Make sure to try a few different blush shades before finding the perfect one.

*Eyebrows- When eyebrows thin or fall out during treatment, it is easy to recreate them by choosing an eyebrow pencil shade in the client’s current hair or wig color. I usually like to color brows one shade lighter than your natural hair/wig color. This illuminates the complexion and does not look harsh or unnatural. Going too dark will result in a look that is too harsh and unflattering. Next, find their natural brow shape. Hold the pencil straight up against the client’s nose, parallel to the inside corner of their eye — and place a dot at the brow bone to mark where the eyebrow begins. Have them look straight ahead, place the pencil parallel to the outside edge of the iris— and place a dot to mark the highest point in the arch. Finally, place the pencil diagonally along the bottom corner of their nose to the outside corner of their eye — and place a dot where the eyebrow ends.
To recreate the brow, connect the three dots with the pencil using short, feathery, upward strokes to simulate the look of hair. After you achieve a desired shape, follow with a brow powder or matte eye shadow in the same color as the pencil to “set” the eyebrow. This is an important step, because most eyebrow pencils are somewhat waxy, and if not set properly, the eyebrow can look oily and fade away during the day.

*Eyeliner and Eye shadow: As educated artists we know that the purpose of eye shadows and liners is to brighten, define and accentuate eyes. Begin by applying the lightest shade of eye shadow from lid to brow bone as a base. Next, add the medium shade to the lid from lashes to crease. For extra definition, add the deepest shade along the crease of the eye. Blend well! Next, draw short, feathery strokes to line along the top of the upper lid at the lash line, then beneath the lower lash line (not inside the rim).

Pro Tip: Smudge your lines with a Q-tip for a soft, sultry effect. A thinly smudged line of dark eye shadow works, too. Inform your clients that as a precautionary note, permanent make-up is not advisable on their skin before or during cancer treatment. Since their immune system may be weaker now, it poses a greater risk of infection. When choosing shades of shadows and liners, feel free to experiment with color. After all, it’s just makeup, it washes off!

*Mascara- Restores a full look to thinning lashes. Apply two to three coats of mascara to upper lashes— top then underside. Next, brush the wand lightly over lower lashes to fill. While false eyelashes can look like your client’s own, they require adhesives that may be too harsh for their sensitive skin. Make sure they consult their physician before application.

*Lipstick- Select a lipstick in a color that complements your chosen make-up palette. Cover lips and blend into liner for a natural look. Creamy, moisturizing lipsticks provide relief for dry lips. Make sure to top it all off with some lip gloss for a plump, sexy sheen!
Having a basic understanding on how to enhance your client’s looks during this difficult time, may provide you with an opportunity to experiment and grow as an artist. It is also part of our job to inform clients of the many resources available for women and men undergoing cancer treatment issues. Advise them that they can have their hairstylist help them choose a wig style that’s both flattering and comfortable.

Get involved as a volunteer in The Look Good…Feel Better program which assists women with cancer in seeking instruction and information and provides its participants with a free makeup kit filled with all kinds of goodies. The workshops are held at comprehensive care clinics, hospitals, American Cancer Society offices, and community centers.  Local group programs are organized by the American Cancer Society, facilitated by LGFB-certified cosmetologists, aestheticians and makeup artists like myself. For more information on the Look Good…Feel Better program visit their website www.lookgoodfeelbetter.org

Finally, offer some support. I like to tell my clients that if they're going through hell, put on some lip gloss and keep going! This is the time for you the professional, to teach your clients to let their inner divas out, and let their essence shine through!

About the Author

Chantal Savinon-Soto is a board certified esthetician, makeup artist, educator, speaker and contributing beauty expert with over 13 years of experience. She is the founder and owner of Chantal Sauvignon, Inc. in Miami, Florida. She specializes in Multimedia, Production, Commercial, and Print. To contact Chantal please visit her website www.chantalsauvignon.com, email chantal@chantalsauvignon.com or call 786-877-2712.

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